Filaments

ABS and ASA — the complete guide

ABS is the original engineering plastic of 3D printing — tough, heat-resistant, and the same material as Lego. ASA is its UV-stable sibling, designed for outdoor use. Both warp badly without an enclosure, both off-gas styrene that you shouldn't breathe, and both reward proper temperature management with parts that hold up in cars, in sun, and under load.

8 min read Updated May 2026 PrintPal editorial
The 30-second answer

Nozzle 240–260 °C, bed 100 °C, fan 0–25%, enclosure mandatory above ~80 mm tall parts. Vent the enclosure to outside — ABS/ASA fumes are unpleasant and potentially irritating. Use glue stick or ABS slurry on the bed. ASA for outdoor parts, ABS for indoor mechanical or acetone smoothing.

ABS vs ASA — what's the difference?

Both are styrene-based copolymers from the same chemical family:

  • ABS = Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. The original. Same material as Lego bricks and most automotive interior trim.
  • ASA = Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. Replaces the butadiene rubber with acrylic rubber, making it UV-stable.

For 3D printing purposes they behave nearly identically — same settings, same warping, same fume profile. Pick ASA for anything outdoors; ABS for indoor parts, acetone smoothing, or where cost matters (ABS is slightly cheaper).

Recommended print settings

SettingABSASA
Nozzle temperature235–255 °C240–260 °C
First-layer temperature250 °C255 °C
Bed temperature95–110 °C100–110 °C
Enclosure temperature40–55 °C40–55 °C
Print speed40–60 mm/s40–60 mm/s
Part cooling fan0% (layers 1–5); 15–25% afterSame
Retraction0.6–1.5 mm (direct), 4–5 mm (Bowden)Same
Bed surfaceSmooth PEI + glue stick, or ABS slurry on glassSame; textured PEI works without glue
Brim8–10 mm8–10 mm
Drying70 °C / 4 hours if showing symptomsSame

Enclosure: required, vented

Without an enclosed, warm chamber, ABS and ASA warp on anything larger than a small calibration cube. The enclosure does two things:

  1. Raises ambient temperature to 35–55 °C, reducing the cooling differential that causes warping.
  2. Blocks drafts — even a fan running on the other side of the room causes localized cooling that lifts corners.

Enclosure options

  • Factory-enclosed printers: Bambu X1C / P1S / H2D, Prusa CORE One, Qidi X-CF Pro, Snapmaker.
  • Aftermarket fabric enclosures: Creality and Anycubic sell $60 fabric tents for open-frame printers.
  • DIY: IKEA Lack table hack, plywood box, or repurposed grow tent.
  • Don't try to print ABS open-frame on anything bigger than ~50 mm tall — you'll waste filament.

Ventilation matters

ABS and ASA off-gas styrene and ultrafine particles.

Both are respiratory irritants. Print enclosed and vented to outdoors, in a garage, or under a fume hood. A HEPA-only filter doesn't remove gaseous VOCs — you need activated carbon or actual outdoor ventilation. See the 3D printing safety guide.

Bed adhesion for warpy materials

Three options that work:

  • Smooth PEI + glue stick (Pritt, Magigoo, 3DLac). Reapply every 3–5 prints.
  • ABS slurry on glass — acetone with dissolved ABS scraps painted thin. Classic Stratasys-grade adhesion.
  • Textured PEI — usually works without adhesive, but glue stick helps for tall ABS prints.

Plus: a wide brim (8–10 mm), mouse-ears at the corners, and bed temp at the top of the recommended range.

Fighting warping

See the dedicated warping guide, but for ABS/ASA specifically:

  1. Print enclosed (mandatory above ~80 mm tall).
  2. Bed at 100–110 °C.
  3. Wide brim (8–10 mm) with 0.1 mm separation gap so it peels.
  4. Part-cooling fan at 0–25% (never 100%).
  5. Round bottom corners on your CAD (1 mm fillet) so there are no sharp corners to lift.
  6. Orient the largest flat face on the bed.
  7. If still warping: thicker first layer (0.25 mm) and slower first-layer speed (15 mm/s).

Strengths

  • Heat resistant: ~100 °C HDT. Survives a car interior in summer.
  • Tough: high impact resistance; bends rather than snaps.
  • Acetone-smoothable (ABS only) — vapor smoothing produces injection-molded-quality surfaces.
  • Easy to glue: ABS-to-ABS bonds with acetone. ASA needs MEK or specific ASA cement.
  • UV stable (ASA): outdoor parts last years without yellowing or embrittling.
  • Cheap: $20–$30/kg, comparable to PLA.

Weaknesses

  • Warps badly without enclosure.
  • Off-gasses styrene and VOCs — not safe to print in living spaces without ventilation.
  • UV degrades ABS within months outdoors — use ASA instead.
  • Hygroscopic: dry before printing (less critical than nylon, more than PLA).
  • Visible layer lines: ABS shows layer aliasing more than PETG.
  • Slight shrinkage: design parts ~0.5–1% larger than target dimensions.

Mechanical properties (typical)

PropertyABSASA
Tensile strength30–40 MPa35–45 MPa
Flexural strength60–80 MPa65–85 MPa
Impact (Izod, notched)10–25 kJ/m²10–20 kJ/m²
HDT (heat deflection)~95 °C~95 °C
UV resistancePoorExcellent
Density1.04 g/cm³1.07 g/cm³

Acetone smoothing (ABS only)

One of ABS's unique party tricks: acetone vapor dissolves the surface layer, smoothing layer lines into a glossy finish.

  1. Use a sealed glass container (jar, big tupperware).
  2. Place paper towels saturated with pure acetone around the inside, away from the print.
  3. Suspend the print on a metal mesh in the centre.
  4. Seal and leave for 10–30 minutes. Inspect every 5–10 min.
  5. Remove and let cure 24+ hours before handling — the surface is soft until the acetone fully evaporates.
Acetone is flammable.

Do this outdoors or in a fume hood. No ignition sources. Don't seal in a metal container that could rust into the seal — the resulting pressure-pop is not fun.

When to choose ABS or ASA

  • Car interior parts (dashboard clips, brackets) — ABS or ASA.
  • Outdoor parts — ASA.
  • Mechanical enclosures with heat exposure — either.
  • Snap-fits for repeated use — either.
  • Smooth-finish display pieces — ABS for acetone smoothing.
  • RC parts — ASA for outdoor RC; ABS for indoor.

Avoid for: parts you'll print without an enclosure, indoor spaces without ventilation, fine miniatures (use PLA), anything bigger than your enclosure's stable warm volume.

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Sources & further reading