Slicing & Settings

Infill patterns and density: which to use for strength, speed and weight

For most prints, 10–15% grid, cubic or gyroid infill is plenty, and functional parts rarely need more than about 30%. If a part needs to be stronger, add walls before you add infill: walls carry most of the load, and infill mainly holds up the top surface and resists crushing.

6 min read Updated October 2026 Beginner Slicing & Settings · 3 of 4

In short

Everyday prints: 10–15% grid or cubic. Fast, strong enough, and the default in many profiles.
Strong in every direction, flexible or warp-prone parts: gyroid or TPMS-D at 15–30%, accepting a longer print.
Decorative models: lightning or support cubic at 5–15%. They hold up the top surface with very little plastic.
Need more strength? Add walls first; raise infill only where parts are crushed, clamped or screwed.

What infill actually does

Infill is the sparse structure between the walls. Prusa's knowledge base puts it plainly: its main job is to support the top layers, which would otherwise have to bridge over empty space, and a model's strength is mostly defined by its perimeters, not its infill.

Holds up the top shell so it doesn't sag into gaps (pillowing).
Adds stiffness and compression resistance, which matters for feet, clamps, press fits and screw bosses.
Ties the walls together so thin walls don't buckle under load.

Bending and pulling loads mostly travel through the outer material, which is why walls give more strength per gram. See layer heights, walls and line widths for wall counts.

Infill pattern comparison

The ratings below come from the OrcaSlicer wiki's side-by-side tests, which compare patterns at the same density on the same model. They're relative, so treat them as a ranking rather than absolute numbers; Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer and Cura offer most of the same patterns.

Pattern	Strength X–Y	Strength Z	Material	Print time	Best for
Grid	High	High	Normal	Normal-low	Fast general-purpose default
Cubic	High	High	Normal	Normal-low	Strong all-rounder that spreads load in 3D
Adaptive cubic	Normal-high	Normal-high	Low	Low	Large parts: dense near walls, sparse in the middle
Triangles	High	Normal	Normal	Normal-low	Parts loaded sideways in the layer plane
Gyroid	High	High	Normal-low	Extra-high	Equal strength in every direction, flexible prints, less warping
TPMS-D	High	High	Normal	High	Gyroid-like strength that slices faster
Cross hatch	Normal-high	Normal-high	Normal	Normal-high	Fast-slicing alternative to gyroid
Honeycomb	High	High	Normal-high	Ultra-high	Looks and rigidity when time doesn't matter
3D honeycomb	Normal-high	Normal-high	Normal-low	Ultra-high	Light, rigid cores when time doesn't matter
Rectilinear	Normal-low	Low	Normal	Normal-low	Simple parts; PrusaSlicer uses it for 100% infill
Support cubic	Low	Low	Low	Low	Holding up top surfaces cheaply
Lightning	Low	Low	Ultra-low	Extra-low	Decorative models and prototypes
Concentric	Low	Normal	High	Normal	Flexible TPU parts, 100% fills, decoration

Two common claims need a caveat. Gyroid is not the speed king: Prusa calls it relatively quick, but Orca's tests rate its print time extra-high next to grid's normal-low, and it is slower to slice. And grid and honeycomb aren't weak in Z: Orca rates both high in every direction. Their real downsides are the nozzle crossing its own lines (grid) and constant direction changes (honeycomb).

The main infill patterns explained

Grid and cubic

Grid prints two sets of crossing lines in every layer: quick and strong, but the nozzle passes over its own lines at each crossing, which can cause noise or scuffs at high speed. Cubic stacks tilted cubes with their corners pointing down, so the lines shift every layer and load spreads in all three directions. Either is a sound default.

Gyroid, TPMS-D and cross hatch

Gyroid is a smooth, wavy 3D surface with equal strength in every direction. Because it has no long straight lines, shrinkage is spread out and parts warp less, and it flexes nicely in TPU. The cost is time, both printing and slicing. TPMS-D (a Schwarz diamond surface, in OrcaSlicer) behaves much the same and slices faster; cross hatch is a faster, straight-line approximation with weaker internal corners.

Lightning and support cubic

Lightning grows thin branches only where the top surface needs holding up, so it uses the least plastic of any pattern and prints fastest. It adds almost no strength. Support cubic does a similar job with a little more material and stiffness. Use either for figurines, display pieces and quick prototypes.

Honeycomb and 3D honeycomb

Honeycomb is rigid and good-looking, but Prusa notes it uses about 25% more material and can take up to twice as long as simpler patterns. 3D honeycomb builds printable cells that are light and stiff. Pick them when appearance or a specific stiffness matters more than print time.

What infill density do you need?

Prusa notes that most models print fine at 10–15% and you'll rarely need more than 30%. Here's a fuller guide:

Density	Use for	What you get
0%	Vase mode, hollow shells that close gradually	Lightest possible; fragile
5–10%	Decorative and display prints (lightning, support cubic)	Enough to hold up the top surface
10–15%	Most everyday prints	Good balance of time, weight and stiffness
20–30%	Functional parts, brackets, tools	Stiffer parts; pair with 4–6 walls
40–60%	Parts that are crushed or clamped	High compression resistance; much heavier
100%	Small solid parts, washers, thin flat pieces	Fully solid; slow and heavy

Free PrintPal toolPrint Time EstimatorSee how infill, walls and layer height change print time before you sliceOpen tool

A printed bracket cracks around its press-fit bearing seat, but is fine everywhere else. What's the most efficient fix?

Switch the whole part to 5% lightning
Add walls and a local high-infill modifier around the bearing seat
Raise the whole part to 100% infill

Press fits load the plastic in compression right at the seat. Extra walls plus a local modifier at 40–60% put material exactly where it's needed, without making the whole part slow and heavy.

Practical infill tips

Walls before infill. If a part isn't strong enough, raise the wall count first, then density.
Use local modifiers. PrusaSlicer, Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer modifiers (or Cura's per-model settings) can raise density only around holes, bosses and clamps.
Mind the weak direction. Layers are the weakest bond in an FDM part. In CNC Kitchen's tests, hooks printed standing were at least 50% weaker than the same hooks printed lying down, so orient parts so loads run along the layers.
Add top layers at low density. If top surfaces pillow at 10% or below, add one or two top layers before you raise density.
Print infill wide and fast. Wider infill lines (0.45–0.6 mm on a 0.4 nozzle) and higher infill speeds cost nothing visible, as long as you stay within your hotend's volumetric flow limit.
Combine infill layers. PrusaSlicer, Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer can print sparse infill every second layer at double thickness, saving time on fine-layer prints.
Keep the infill anchor on. Anchoring infill lines to the walls makes them sturdier; Prusa notes PETG in particular benefits.

Infill density also drives filament cost and weight, so check both before printing a batch. The 3D print cost calculator turns grams into money.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best infill pattern?

For everyday prints, grid or cubic is a fast, strong default. Gyroid and TPMS-D are strong in every direction and good for flexible or warp-prone parts, but slower. Lightning is best for decorative models where infill only needs to hold up the top surface.

What infill percentage should I use?

10 to 15% suits most models, and functional parts rarely need more than about 30%. Go higher locally where a part is crushed or clamped, such as around screw holes or press fits.

Does more infill make a print stronger?

Only a little for bending and pulling, because walls carry most of that load. Adding walls is usually the more efficient fix; infill mainly adds stiffness and compression resistance.

Is gyroid infill faster than grid?

Usually not. OrcaSlicer's comparison rates gyroid's print time as extra high and grid's as normal-low, and gyroid also takes longer to slice, though Prusa still calls it relatively quick. Gyroid's real advantages are equal strength in every direction and less warping.

Layer heights, walls and line widths Supports: tree vs normal, interfaces, painting Cooling, speeds and acceleration 3D printing cost guide